What Holi Is and Why It Is Worth the Trip
Holi is India's festival of colours, spring and forgiveness, and the one Hindu festival built for strangers to join. It falls on the full moon of the lunar month of Phalguna and runs over two days: Holika Dahan, when bonfires are lit at dusk to burn the demoness Holika and the old year's grudges with her, and Rangwali Holi, the morning after, when the colours fly. In the villages of Braj, where Krishna is said to have grown up teasing the milkmaids with colour, the festival stretches over a week and takes forms found nowhere else.
What you see and do:
Holika Dahan: neighbourhood bonfires with an effigy on top, prayers, roasted grain thrown into the flames, and the first drumming of the night
Rangwali Holi: gulal (dry powder) smeared on faces, water pistols and buckets, pichkari syringes, drummers and dancers in the lanes, and the greeting "Happy Holi" or "Bura na mano, Holi hai"
In Braj: Lathmar Holi, where the women of Barsana beat the men of Nandgaon with sticks while the men defend themselves with shields; Phoolon wali Holi, where Banke Bihari Temple's priests shower devotees with flower petals; Laddu Holi, where sweets are thrown; and the widow's Holi in Vrindavan, a recent and moving tradition
In Rajasthan: Udaipur's royal Holika Dahan at the City Palace with the Mewar royal family, and Jaipur's elephant-free but colourful city events
In the cities: ticketed Holi parties with DJs, rain dance and organic colours, from Delhi's parks to Goa's beaches
After noon: a wash, a huge lunch, gujiya sweets, thandai (sometimes laced with bhang) and an afternoon of visiting
Holi is also celebrated outside India. In Nepal it is Fagu Purnima, a public holiday on different days in the hills and the plains; in Guyana, Trinidad and Tobago and Suriname, where the descendants of Indian indentured workers settled, it is Phagwah, with parades, chowtal singing and the same abeer colours.
Tip: Decide early which Holi you want: the devotional chaos of Braj, the royal pageantry of Rajasthan, or a ticketed party in Delhi or Goa. They are different trips, and the first one needs the most planning.














